With such quantity of chemicals, it is stated on their datasheet that it should develop 3 rolls of film 135mm/24exp. This in addition to Jobo 1510 Processing Tank should give me around 12 rolls of 135mm/24exp.Īs the Jobo 1510 has a capacity of 250ml, I would just prepare 250ml of Developer and Blix in order not to waste any chemicals and leave the rest in powdered form. With such in mind, I found out the "CineStill C41 Color Simplified" powder kit, which should last a very long time if not mixed, and about 6 weeks if diluted and stored properly. I figured out that just using some hot water replenished ever so often with hotter water, I can achieve a discretely precise control over its temperature. I don't have automatic-controlled temperatures. I can batch-process many films in one go, so I'm referring to unmixed shelf life. This leads to the consequence that I need a chemistry that MUST last for a while. I am an occasional photographer, which means I'm probably consuming 1 roll of film per month, considering they're not cheap at all. ![]() I have a few requirements for this, which I'll list bellow: For 3€, I figured out this wasn't much of an issue as I could bring those pictures back to life with tools on my PCs.īut as I've become more expert with the "shooting" side of analog, I decided to take an important step and begin to develop my own films at home. After taking my first few Kodak rolls to my local photography centre, I noticed that they were highly underexposed and lacked a lot of contrast. I never had a single disappointing batch after making those time changes, either by hand in SS tanks, in a JOBO, or in my Sidekick.I've recently started shooting in analog, an hobby which truly appeals to me. The extra time on those three steps goes a long way to compensate for any weakness of chemistry (like using ColorDev that's two weeks old when experience says to only keep it for ten days) or lowering temps. I don't think the stabilizer needs any extra time. I jacked up the bleach from six to ten, the fix from three to four, and added at least one extra wash. I've always found that the published time for ColorDev was way low, the manager of one of the late pro labs in Seattle (ProLab, actually) suggested six minutes instead of four, and I've never regretted it. I have never seen reticulation, I don't think you really run any risk of that unless you absurdly overheat the water or walk away during the wash and forget about it overnight.Īlso note that once you've rinsed the FirstDev out, every single step is "run to completion" and all you have to make sure is that you give it enough time and enough temperature to fully complete. If you sense the bath is cooling during the bleach and the thermometer confirms it, pour some hot water into the bath. ![]() Your skin is incredibly sensitive to temperature changes within a few degrees of your target, so a basic thermometer clipped to a corner of the water bath combined with having your fingers in the bath make an outstanding alarm system. ![]() Note that body temperature is 37 degrees. The FirstDev really is critical, too warm and you're pushing, way too warm and you'll pucker the emulsion. While there is reason for the tolerances that Kodak and Fuji publish for the processing steps, they're tighter than you probably need, and exaggerated.
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